How the wave breaks
The takeoff sits at the top of the point, over a shallow bank of cobblestones with the rocks close on your inside. There is not much water under you when a set stands up, and the first stretch is the fastest part of the wave: a steep wall that asks for a late drop and an immediate line down the point. On a solid south it can throw out over the bank, and hesitating here is how boards meet rock.
From there the wave wraps under the headland and peels toward the pier in long, fast walls. Some sections slow into shoulders made for full carves, others jack up again over the inner banks, and when a solid south lines up they link into a single ride close to three hundred meters long. It is a performance wave rather than a lazy point: fast enough to keep you racing the curl the whole way down, long enough that three good turns feel like the beginning.


